Necromunda Bases

I'm starting to build a Goliath gang from Necromunda. The industrial bases that come with the kit are really nice. I decided to magnetize these bases in case I'd like to store/display them in a special manner down the road.

I chose a subdued color palette. Here I airbrushed a light grey over black, painted small scratches and rust marks with German camo black/brown, then stippled with a very watered-down mixture of turquoise, and later purple. Once dry, I used enamel washes to create the rust and the darker shadows.

Fun one-day project.

Handles for Painting Miniatures

I've been painting minis for years and, throughout that time, I've always used winebottle corks for handles. They're essentially free (if you enjoy wine) and are a reasonable size to hold your model. But there are a few shortcomings related to their size and shape. They're rather small in diameter which can lead to some fatigue if painting for awhile. Also, you need to saw off one end to assure the model/handle can stand on its own. Even with this easy modification, it's still easy to topple. 

I do think these are minor quibbles and I clearly haven't given it much thought after all this time. That is, until I finally tried something new.

A size 20 cork with 1/4 inch balsa wood strip. 

The old way (which is still fine, especially for small parts).

I've started using a large size 20 cork stopper with a 1/4 inch strip of balsa wood attached to the top. I can easily attach/remove a pinned model, place a model to the side without fear of falling, and my hand no longer aches after a long painting session. 

Another trick is to place a small piece of paper beneath an unpainted model before attaching to the balsa strip. Now I have a handy way to hold a model for spray priming. The paper keeps both my hand and the cork handle clean. Once the model is dry (easily standing on its own), I can just remove it, discard the paper, and re-attach the model. 

Moisture Vaporators

I don't often take pictures during each step of a project, but I thought it might be fun to try it this time. Who knows, I may paint some more moisture vaporators in the future and can look back at this for reference.

1. Prime white.
2. Airbrush a dark grey into the recesses.
3. Airbrush base coat of white, letting grey remain in recesses as a shadow.
4. Using a torn sponge (from discarded packign material), blot scracthes onto model using dark red-brown paint.
5. Apply weathering with a small brush. This includes chips of the same dark red-brown paint used previously, followed by spot washes of sepia ink, and finally black-lining around crevices with a dark grey enamel wash. Paint radar/antenna with silver paints.
6. Attach models to a base (already primed in black) and apply base material.
7. Paint a thin coat of a sand color to base material. Follow by re-applying a second thin coat.