My airbrushes

My current collection of airbrushes. Clockwise from top:
Tamiya HG-SF with aftermarket condensate collector,
GSI Creos PS-770, Iwata HP-CS, and my retired Tamiya HG-T. 

I've worked with airbrushes for decades, starting with artwork in high school before discovering their use for scale models and game miniatures. I've dabbled with various types, including siphon-fed and gravity-fed paint cups, as well as single and double action design. My current collection of airbrushes are from Tamiya, Iwata, and GSI Creos (aka Mr Hobby).

For years, I relied upon only two airbrushes: the Tamiya Spray-Work HG-T and HG-SF (0.3mm and 0.2mm nozzles, respectively). They covered all my needs, from small details to large areas. Though affordable, parts availability was occasionally an issue. 

Recently, a leaky needle packing prompted my retirement of the HG-T. Seeking a new large nozzle airbrush, I opted for the highly-regarded Iwata HP-CS Eclipse (0.35mm nozzle). It's an awesome general purpose airbrush that's well suited for priming and base coats. I really like how the Iwata handles viscous paints such as Vallejo's Mecha Black primer with ease. The airbrush cleans up easily, too.

For years, my go-to airbrush for miniature painting has been the Tamiya HG-SF (although my new Iwata may soon takeover the throne). Once a model is primed, I routinely turn to this airbrush for applying the base coat. The small cup size is great for quickly switching between colors. Despite having a fine nozzle, it works well with acrylic paint and rarely clogs. 

I also own a GSI Creos PS-770. This is a true speciality airbrush best used with inks and very dilute paint. The fine nozzle (0.18mm) is a double-edged sword: it allows you to spray incredibly fine lines but it’s more likely to clog and difficult to clean. Although I don’t use it often, it’s an incredible tool.

If you enjoy miniature painting but have not done so yet, definitely consider purchasing an airbrush. The Iwata HP-CS Eclipse may be a good place to start.

Links to manufacturer’s site:

• Tamiya Spray-Work HG-T (MSRP US$230, Retail approximately US$120)
• Tamiya Spray-Work HG-SF (MSRP US$230, Retail approximately US$100)
• Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (MSRP US$207, Retail approximately US$170)
• GSI Creos PS-770 (MSRP Unknown, Retail approximately US$250).

It's been a long time since I last painted and weathered vinyl tank tracks. Here are the in progress pictures from my current model, an old Tamiya 1/35 1A2 Marder.

They're ok. Not sure the final drybrush of Stone Grey was necessary but they just looked so monochromatic before that application. I think I'll add more pigments once the tracks are mounted to the chassis. Next time I may try Vallejo's Panzer Ace Track Primer instead of the combo of Tamiya's Flat Aluminum + Flat Earth. I avoided using Vallejo since I wasn't sure it could stand up to the abuse of weathering.

Tamiya X-21 and X-22 for Clear Coats

Update (10-Aug-2016):

It's been two years since my original post. I realized I should write an update based upon my experience when working with plastic model kits rather than game miniatures.

Try lacquer thinner.

Consider using Tamiya's lacquer thinner instead of Tamiya's acrylic thinner. In fact, I now favor the lacquer thinner, espeically for gloss coats; it doesn't seem to matter much for semi-gloss or flat. I've discovered that the gloss finish is generally much smoother and avoids the dreaded "orange peel" look that you can sometimes experience when using an airbrush. Definitely give it a try on a piece of scrap and judge for yourself.

Apply no more than 2 light coats and allow to dry.

Go easy when spraying flat coats. If you build-up multiple coats during a single airbrush session, you may be at risk of applying too much and creating a milky white finish. Disaster! It won't be obvious until after it dries. Try to spray no more than 2 light coats and allow to dry overnight. You can always apply more the next day. Honestly, this milky effect can happen with any flat finish product including the popular Testors Dullcote. I've learned this the hard way. I routinely apply a "wet coat" for a smooth finish when painting as I wrap-up any given airbrush session. However, I've learned to avoid that practice with any clear flat finish and I've had good luck ever since. Sorry - I should have shared that insight in my original post.

It may sound like a lot of effort getting to understand these products, but I think it's worth it. In my experience, I personally believe the Tamiya finishes are much stronger when compared to Dullcote or other acrylic products. That's an important consideration for weathering. But who knows? Try to remain open minded for new products. Maybe the next great thing is around the corner!

Original post:

Not sure why this pops up in forums so often, but here is how you can use Tamiya’s products to airbrush a clear coat. I generally prepare a 50:50 mixture of paint:thinner and spray at 10 to 20 psig.

The following table describes the mixtures using volumetric percentages:

Finish	Acrylic Thinner X-20A	Flat Base X-21	Clear X-22
Gloss	50%	0%	50%
Semi-Gloss	50%	5%	45%
Flat	50%	10%	40%

And this table describes the mixtures using volumetric ratios:

Finish	Acrylic Thinner X-20A	Flat Base X-21	Clear X-22
Gloss	10	0	10
Semi-Gloss	10	1	9
Flat	10	2	8

Flat base is not at all intended to be used directly; it must always be mixed with another paint. More information may be found here on Tamiya's web site.

I generally prefer to use Duplicolor gloss clear spray as a durable finish for game miniatures, followed by a light dusting of Testors Dullcote. However, once the cold sweeps in, I can no longer spray paints outside. Tamiya clear is a nice alternative and I can airbrush it indoors. I do believe a lacquer-based clear is stronger than acrylic, yet that may just be my own perception. Honestly, I have no way to really measure this and can happily say that both techniques have held up well over the years.

Good luck!

Lacquer and acrylic paints

Did you know that you can mix Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner? Sure enough, it actually works – and it works pretty darn well.

I've had nothing but headaches with Tamiya's metallics. They're just too thick. Relegated to the back of my paint drawer, I had forgotten that I even had some until earlier today.

I was reading about painting tank tracks when I came across an interesting thread on Armorama. One reader posted that he often mixes Tamiya metallics with lacquer because it thins easily for an airbrush. I had to try it for myself:

In the image above, the track was painted with a 2:1 mix of X-10 Gun Metal and XF-10 Flat Brown. I've got to admit that I was expecting a real mess, but it was no problem at all. The paint and lacquer mixed easily and sprayed very well. I used a 1:1 mixture of paint:lacquer and airbrushed at about 20 psig. When I was all done, I even cleaned my airbrush with Windex. I can't believe it actually worked.

Although Alclad still remains to be my favorite metallic paint for an airbrush, it's good to know that Tamiya's metallics aren't that bad after all.