Adding details to model kit ejection seats

I just started building a 1:72 scale F/A-18F Hornet from Hasegawa. The kit's detail overall is pretty nice, but the cockpit is very plain. This isn't a big deal to me since I want to build this kit with the canopy closed. Still, the orignal seats are a bit too simple. 

What I did was really minor yet I believe adds interest. After an hour of effort, I made harnesses from Tamiya tape and sliced up a few stryene bits to suggest mechanical shapes missing from the original part. I just used scrap styrene and stretched sprue heated over a candle. 

I painted the seats in the same style I would use for game miniatures; high contrast and edge highlights. No need for washes or drybrushing. Simple painting techniques are yet another way to add details.

Khorne Bloodreaver

Finished painting a Khorne Bloodreaver last week and I have another in progress. World Eaters space marines were among the first 40k models I ever painted. Always fun painting red.

Here are some magnetic paint handles I recently made. Rather than just glue a magnet to a cork, I designed a holder in Fusion 360. The idea is that this larger, flat surface offers a more stable attachment with the base than a bare magnet atop a cork. The magnet is only 0.5mm below the surface of the holder, creating a strong connection.

The square base shown in the photo is what I call a “reference base.” I use it to orient the polarity of the holder’s magnet. I simply place it below the resin part while I glue the magnet in place. Every magnet I’ve used in the hobby has been oriented using that same square base, guaranteeing that I’ve always used the same polarity.

I used a 10x2mm magnet in the holder. I often use a 8x2mm magnet in my bases.

Still painting my Seraphon Stegadon. I finished the Skystreak Bow and one of the two platforms. Most of the colors are fairly neutral with details in gold, red, and turquoise. There are a few spots that deserve a little touch-up, but I think I'll just move forward. I have one more platform to go and then I can move on to the dinos.

Return of the King

Since the release of The Old World, many hobbyists have posted pictures of their old Warhammer Fantasy armies. It’s a fun bit of nostalgia. Although I never played WHFB, I did like the miniatures and painted a few of the heroes when I was young. I thought it would be fun to try painting one of these models again.

Rather than buy any of the re-released kits or pay an outrageous price on ebay, I chose to buy & print a 3D file of a Bretonnian-inspired figure. Shown above is the one I picked: Robert the Gallia from Highlands Miniatures. It’s a proxy for the classic Louen Leoncoeur, the king of Bretonnia, riding upon a hippogryph. I built the original (poorly) long ago. Hopefully I'll do a better job!

Using my favorite resin, Phrozen Aqua 4K, I printed the mini on an Elegoo Saturn (original model, not a 4K, 8K, or whatever else is now available). Zoom in and you may see a few layer lines. From past experience, however, it’s likely this will be largely hidden under the primer and final coat of paint.

The sculpt is terrific - lightyears better than the original GW pewter. Highlands Miniatures offers two weapon options: a sword and lance. I printed both to see which pose I prefer; I think it’s the sword.

Hopefully I can paint the model soon after finishing up my Seraphon Stegadon. Unless, of course, I’m distracted by something new!

My airbrushes

My current collection of airbrushes. Clockwise from top:
Tamiya HG-SF with aftermarket condensate collector,
GSI Creos PS-770, Iwata HP-CS, and my retired Tamiya HG-T. 

I've worked with airbrushes for decades, starting with artwork in high school before discovering their use for scale models and game miniatures. I've dabbled with various types, including siphon-fed and gravity-fed paint cups, as well as single and double action design. My current collection of airbrushes are from Tamiya, Iwata, and GSI Creos (aka Mr Hobby).

For years, I relied upon only two airbrushes: the Tamiya Spray-Work HG-T and HG-SF (0.3mm and 0.2mm nozzles, respectively). They covered all my needs, from small details to large areas. Though affordable, parts availability was occasionally an issue. 

Recently, a leaky needle packing prompted my retirement of the HG-T. Seeking a new large nozzle airbrush, I opted for the highly-regarded Iwata HP-CS Eclipse (0.35mm nozzle). It's an awesome general purpose airbrush that's well suited for priming and base coats. I really like how the Iwata handles viscous paints such as Vallejo's Mecha Black primer with ease. The airbrush cleans up easily, too.

For years, my go-to airbrush for miniature painting has been the Tamiya HG-SF (although my new Iwata may soon takeover the throne). Once a model is primed, I routinely turn to this airbrush for applying the base coat. The small cup size is great for quickly switching between colors. Despite having a fine nozzle, it works well with acrylic paint and rarely clogs. 

I also own a GSI Creos PS-770. This is a true speciality airbrush best used with inks and very dilute paint. The fine nozzle (0.18mm) is a double-edged sword: it allows you to spray incredibly fine lines but it’s more likely to clog and difficult to clean. Although I don’t use it often, it’s an incredible tool.

If you enjoy miniature painting but have not done so yet, definitely consider purchasing an airbrush. The Iwata HP-CS Eclipse may be a good place to start.

Links to manufacturer’s site:

• Tamiya Spray-Work HG-T (MSRP US$230, Retail approximately US$120)
• Tamiya Spray-Work HG-SF (MSRP US$230, Retail approximately US$100)
• Iwata Eclipse HP-CS (MSRP US$207, Retail approximately US$170)
• GSI Creos PS-770 (MSRP Unknown, Retail approximately US$250).

WIP: Seraphon Stegadon

My first model of the year is a Seraphon Stegadon. Shown above is a picture of some detail bits I started painting.

This is an older kit, circa 2015 I believe. The parts fit together ok, but not great. This is especially true of the dino rather than the skink riders or gun platform. I used a generous amount of sprue goo (sprue dissolved in Tamiya extra thin model cement) for much of the construction. This filled the gaps reasonably well - no greenstuff required.

I sometimes lose momentum on larger models like this. So, I decided to try posting my progress as motivation. My hope is that I can look back at these posts to remind me where I started and (hopefully) realize the finish line is in sight.