WIP: Seraphon Stegadon

My first model of the year is a Seraphon Stegadon. Shown above is a picture of some detail bits I started painting.

This is an older kit, circa 2015 I believe. The parts fit together ok, but not great. This is especially true of the dino rather than the skink riders or gun platform. I used a generous amount of sprue goo (sprue dissolved in Tamiya extra thin model cement) for much of the construction. This filled the gaps reasonably well - no greenstuff required.

I sometimes lose momentum on larger models like this. So, I decided to try posting my progress as motivation. My hope is that I can look back at these posts to remind me where I started and (hopefully) realize the finish line is in sight.

Handles for Painting Miniatures

I've been painting minis for years and, throughout that time, I've always used winebottle corks for handles. They're essentially free (if you enjoy wine) and are a reasonable size to hold your model. But there are a few shortcomings related to their size and shape. They're rather small in diameter which can lead to some fatigue if painting for awhile. Also, you need to saw off one end to assure the model/handle can stand on its own. Even with this easy modification, it's still easy to topple. 

I do think these are minor quibbles and I clearly haven't given it much thought after all this time. That is, until I finally tried something new.

A size 20 cork with 1/4 inch balsa wood strip. 

The old way (which is still fine, especially for small parts).

I've started using a large size 20 cork stopper with a 1/4 inch strip of balsa wood attached to the top. I can easily attach/remove a pinned model, place a model to the side without fear of falling, and my hand no longer aches after a long painting session. 

Another trick is to place a small piece of paper beneath an unpainted model before attaching to the balsa strip. Now I have a handy way to hold a model for spray priming. The paper keeps both my hand and the cork handle clean. Once the model is dry (easily standing on its own), I can just remove it, discard the paper, and re-attach the model. 

Moisture Vaporators

I don't often take pictures during each step of a project, but I thought it might be fun to try it this time. Who knows, I may paint some more moisture vaporators in the future and can look back at this for reference.

1. Prime white.
2. Airbrush a dark grey into the recesses.
3. Airbrush base coat of white, letting grey remain in recesses as a shadow.
4. Using a torn sponge (from discarded packign material), blot scracthes onto model using dark red-brown paint.
5. Apply weathering with a small brush. This includes chips of the same dark red-brown paint used previously, followed by spot washes of sepia ink, and finally black-lining around crevices with a dark grey enamel wash. Paint radar/antenna with silver paints.
6. Attach models to a base (already primed in black) and apply base material.
7. Paint a thin coat of a sand color to base material. Follow by re-applying a second thin coat.

Star Wars Legion B-1 Battledroids

Here's a batch of B-1 Battledroids I painted for Star Wars Legion. I followed Sorastro’s video where he almost exclusively used GW's contrast paints. This was my first time using the paint and it wasn't as easy to use as I imagined.

Here’s what I learned:

• Don’t treat GW’s contrast paints like GW’s shades.
• Unlike shades, contrast paints dry reasonably fast.
• Unlike shades, contrast paints transition to a glossy, sticky phase before they fully cure with a flat finish. If you touch the paint when it’s sticky, it will lift the paint and the spot will appear as nothing more than lightly tinted primer.
• If excess contrast paint is not removed, the final color can be much darker than you intended.

My technique was to first load my brush with water, wipe away the excess on a paper towel, then dip the brush into the paint and coat the model. I then quickly proceeded to wash out brush, load with contrast medium and wipe away the excess on a paper towel, and finally mop-up contrast paint from flat areas and high points on the model.

GW's contrast paints seem like an easy-to-use product for models that appear weathered. I'm not so sure about clean models, though. I have a box of Clone Troopers. Perhaps they'll be good candidates to explore that technique.

O Scale Cabin

This is the time of year when a visit to the local hobby shop shifts from RC cars to trains. On our recent trip my son eagerly picked out a new house for his Lionel train set we display each Christmas. Despite the seemingly endless stacks of kits standing before him, he quickly found one that he really liked: a small log cabin produced by Bachmann. When we arrived back home, my son tore open the box and proceeded to assemble the kit. Since it was little more than four walls and a roof, he was done in about 10 minutes!

Staring at a monochromatic chocolate brown building, my son’s charm for the kit quickly vanished. I asked if he would like to paint it and I was happily met with a smile and an enthusiastic nod.

To start we primed the little cabin with grey paint which was allowed to cure overnight. Next we mixed up several different shades of brown to paint the logs. This was followed with a wash of Citadel Agrax Earthshade and later a drybrush with a khaki color. The doors were painted a dark crimson and later the frames were picked out with a bright red. The roof was painted much like the logs except with darker colors.

I think the final product looks great! My son did a wonderful job with just a little bit of direction from yours truly. Although this was a brand new kit, the plastic parts themselves were stamped with a copyright dated 1952. Who says you can’t make a nice model from an old kit? It may not be very detailed but with a nice coat of paint it sure looks good beneath the Christmas tree.

Cork Bases

I really do love making bases. It’s a fun little vignette for your figures and you can choose to take as much artistic license as you’d like. You can do so much more than just applying globs of glue and sand.

Here is one of my favorite techniques that looks great yet is easy enough for army building. I start with a ⅛-inch thick sheet of cork from a craft store. Next, I simply tear off bits with my fingers or a tweezer and then attach them to my base. I personally like to use several small pieces for each base and then fill the cracks and crevices with sand and small stones. The end result is a base reminiscent of a scarred landscape like the desert. The best part is that the base is entirely level on top making attachment of the figure absolutely trivial. I tend to pin the model to the base but a dollop of a strong adhesive like epoxy will work, too.

Shown above are a set of bases for my Ork army. I chose muted colors to ensure the model on top will be the central focus. I painted the entire surface Olive Skin from Reaper, followed by Blacked-Brown along on the sides of the cork. I later applied a brown ink wash and drybrushed with Terran Khaki and Yellowed Bone. I stippled a bit of Palomino Gold in there, too, but the effect is somewhat lost under the drybrushing. The edge of the base is Olive Drab.

Tamiya X-21 and X-22 for Clear Coats

Update (10-Aug-2016):

It's been two years since my original post. I realized I should write an update based upon my experience when working with plastic model kits rather than game miniatures.

Try lacquer thinner.

Consider using Tamiya's lacquer thinner instead of Tamiya's acrylic thinner. In fact, I now favor the lacquer thinner, espeically for gloss coats; it doesn't seem to matter much for semi-gloss or flat. I've discovered that the gloss finish is generally much smoother and avoids the dreaded "orange peel" look that you can sometimes experience when using an airbrush. Definitely give it a try on a piece of scrap and judge for yourself.

Apply no more than 2 light coats and allow to dry.

Go easy when spraying flat coats. If you build-up multiple coats during a single airbrush session, you may be at risk of applying too much and creating a milky white finish. Disaster! It won't be obvious until after it dries. Try to spray no more than 2 light coats and allow to dry overnight. You can always apply more the next day. Honestly, this milky effect can happen with any flat finish product including the popular Testors Dullcote. I've learned this the hard way. I routinely apply a "wet coat" for a smooth finish when painting as I wrap-up any given airbrush session. However, I've learned to avoid that practice with any clear flat finish and I've had good luck ever since. Sorry - I should have shared that insight in my original post.

It may sound like a lot of effort getting to understand these products, but I think it's worth it. In my experience, I personally believe the Tamiya finishes are much stronger when compared to Dullcote or other acrylic products. That's an important consideration for weathering. But who knows? Try to remain open minded for new products. Maybe the next great thing is around the corner!

Original post:

Not sure why this pops up in forums so often, but here is how you can use Tamiya’s products to airbrush a clear coat. I generally prepare a 50:50 mixture of paint:thinner and spray at 10 to 20 psig.

The following table describes the mixtures using volumetric percentages:

Finish	Acrylic Thinner X-20A	Flat Base X-21	Clear X-22
Gloss	50%	0%	50%
Semi-Gloss	50%	5%	45%
Flat	50%	10%	40%

And this table describes the mixtures using volumetric ratios:

Finish	Acrylic Thinner X-20A	Flat Base X-21	Clear X-22
Gloss	10	0	10
Semi-Gloss	10	1	9
Flat	10	2	8

Flat base is not at all intended to be used directly; it must always be mixed with another paint. More information may be found here on Tamiya's web site.

I generally prefer to use Duplicolor gloss clear spray as a durable finish for game miniatures, followed by a light dusting of Testors Dullcote. However, once the cold sweeps in, I can no longer spray paints outside. Tamiya clear is a nice alternative and I can airbrush it indoors. I do believe a lacquer-based clear is stronger than acrylic, yet that may just be my own perception. Honestly, I have no way to really measure this and can happily say that both techniques have held up well over the years.

Good luck!

Holding Miniatures While Painting

Seems like everyone has a different way to hold miniatures while painting. My favorite is attaching a model to a wine bottle cork. I find that holding the miniature is comfortable and that my hands are not fatigued after a painting session.

I start by trimming the ends of the cork square (as best as I can) with a razor saw. A few passes with sandpaper knocks off the loose bits. From here, I can insert a pinned model directly into the cork. For larger models, I glue a piece of balsa between the model and the cork. I like balsa because it's soft enough that you can press a model into the wood and it will take the shape of the model. For adhesive, I found that a hot glue gun like you find at an art store will work great. Use only a small amount of glue so that you can easily remove the model later when your painting is complete.

Hope that helps!

Birds of Prey

I made a little progress this weekend with the miniatures in Star Trek: Fleet Captains. Much like my last batch of models, I painted these guys using a fast technique with a limited palette. The only notable difference was a black ink wash just before drybrushing. I'm not sure that was the best choice since it left the Birds of Prey a bit darker than my D7s. Fortunately, when placed side-by-side all of the ships still appear to be a cohesive force.

That's 7 down and only 17 more models to go. Ugh... this hobby is suppose to be fun, right? :)

Painted 4 minis in 1 day - That's a new record!

Here is my first set of painted models from the board game Star Trek: Fleet Captains. Apologies for the pictures: the white balance is off (the background should be a pale blue).

Since I have a total of 24 miniatures to paint, I decided to try a fast method of washes, drybrushing, and minimal highlighting. Aside from the red/orange engines, my palette was limited to just four colors: Templar Blue, Ashen Blue, Black Green, and Ghost White. After priming, I finished all four models in about 3 hours. For me, that's lightning fast!

I'm pretty happy with the painting results, but I do have mixed feelings about the models themselves. All of the models included with the game arrived assembled and attached to their bases. I was disappointed to see that each has a defect where the plastic was broken/cut/torn from the casting sprue. Also, most parts were misaligned and attached with large gaps. I've tried disassembling a few models, but it's a real chore and can require cutting away plastic (and then rebuilding) simply to make a repair.

So here's my warning to others: fixing the minis in this game will require a lot of effort. While it's not an impossible task, it really is time consuming. But if you're a nerd like me, you'll just persevere ... and probably enjoy it!

My first attempt at painting a mini

I was digging through my old photos and came across the one posted above. I forgot all about this little guy! It's a Chaos Iron Warrior Space Marine from Games Workshop. Now that's a mouthful.

I painted this model way back in 2002 (was it really that long ago?) following my first visit to a local game store. I had just built a plastic model tank and I was looking for some paint. Before long, the hobby supplies were an afterthought as I was now browsing a wall of detailed miniatures. Although I had painted a few Ral Partha minis in high school, I had no idea people still made these things nor that they had become so intricate.

This little guy was repainted about a dozen times until I thought he looked "just right." He's the model that ultimately inspired me to search countless web sites and forums where I learned about tricks & techniques for painting. Lost years ago after we moved, it's fun to see him one more time.

Painting Tutorials

If you're looking to learn more about painting minis, I'd recommend checking out the DVDs from Hot Lead. The 3 disc set is pretty comprehensive and perhaps most useful to beginners. There's a lot here that would have saved me quite a bit of trial & error over the years!

For me, the most useful information concerned matte medium and retarder. I've long had mixed results with this stuff. After watching the videos, I came away with a better understanding of their use and saw an immediate improvement in my painting. Using these materials is really helpful for layering and wet-blending.

You'll also see numerous demos of differing techniques. In particular, I thought the example for wet blending was great. I enjoyed watching demos for NMM and I only wish there was more.

I also learned to appreciate keeping a notebook. While I've tried this before, I never saw much value. But by actually applying paint to my pages (rather than just notes) I've discovered that I can plan out the entire palette for a mini. Now I can see what works before slapping down some paint. That was a great suggestion from the video and one I plan to use more often.

Although you're not going to watch 8 hours of video in one sitting, it is worthwhile to grab a copy of Hot Lead's DVD as a reference. Hopefully you'll find it as useful as I have.

Easy stone bases

Months ago, I was experimenting with basing in greenstuff. My original thread can be found here at 40k Online. Would you believe it's taken me about 6 months to actually paint one of these? Wow - I'm easily distracted!

I specifically made these for use in Incursion, a game which takes place inside a WWII bunker. I knew the common gravel basing technique just wouldn't do, so I came up with the trick of pressing a rock into greenstuff. It's an easy way to create a simple, rocky surface in scale with 28mm miniatures. Painting is a snap, too. Just a base coat of dark grey, dry brushing with light shades of grey, and finally an ink wash to bend it all together.

Here's the finished product using a miniature I painted last week. I wasn't too happy with my painting, but at least the base is an improvement.

Current score on Cool Mini or Not:

Yikes - what is that mess?

While it's not the best picture, this model doesn't look much better in person. Where did I go wrong?

This zombie is from the Weird WWII line of miniatures by West Wind. While I like the quirky subject and the price is great, a number of the models I've purchased have had very soft casting details. As you can see in the picture, the hands were pretty messed up and the face looked like it was melted by a candle. But, a good painter could still get good results. I, on the other hand, totally missed the mark.

So what can I learn? Here are a few things I could have improved:

All of my color choices are poor. While I thought I had a good match for Field Grey, I made the wrong choice for the highlights. Next time I work on a German soldier, I'll more towards grey than a yellow/green. Also, the choice of a greenish shirt beneath the coat was a real miss. Maybe a brown would have been better?

The contrast between skin colors and the coat is too great. The skin was supposed to be a purple/pale green that just fell flat. I assumed that purple and green would compliment the coat, but sadly, it was just wrong. The picture didn't capture the skin colors well but then neither did I!

Beneath a few coats of paint are my mistakes at painting blood stained clothing. Looked goofy, like he fell into a can of red paint! I tried painting some dark browns like dried blood as well, but that looked more like he was eating chocolate ice cream. Needless to say, I applied a coat of paint to hide the entire mess!

Finally, the coat blending is splotchy. This guy could have benefited from more blending. The boots are no better. Honestly, I could see the model wasn't going well but decided to just finish and move on.

While the end results is ok for a simple gaming mini, it's not what I was shooting for. I guess this will just be another piece of fodder in my small army for Incursion. Oh well - there's always next time!

Pathfinder

Caught the painting bug this weekend. After digging around my stash of models, I found a US Pathfinder by Artizan. Something simple, nothing too elaborate... just a miniature where I could practice blending. I've also been striving to increase the contrast in my pallet. Not quite there yet, but I'm starting to see progress. A bit more shadow would have helped.

Uniform colors were primarily from Reaper paints: Olive Drab, Olive Drab Shadow, and Worn Olive Drab. I also used a bit of Worn Olive Drab plus GW's Bubonic Brown for the final highlight.

Overall a nice little mini for anyone building an army of American WWII soldiers.

Lacquer and acrylic paints

Did you know that you can mix Tamiya acrylics with lacquer thinner? Sure enough, it actually works – and it works pretty darn well.

I've had nothing but headaches with Tamiya's metallics. They're just too thick. Relegated to the back of my paint drawer, I had forgotten that I even had some until earlier today.

I was reading about painting tank tracks when I came across an interesting thread on Armorama. One reader posted that he often mixes Tamiya metallics with lacquer because it thins easily for an airbrush. I had to try it for myself:

In the image above, the track was painted with a 2:1 mix of X-10 Gun Metal and XF-10 Flat Brown. I've got to admit that I was expecting a real mess, but it was no problem at all. The paint and lacquer mixed easily and sprayed very well. I used a 1:1 mixture of paint:lacquer and airbrushed at about 20 psig. When I was all done, I even cleaned my airbrush with Windex. I can't believe it actually worked.

Although Alclad still remains to be my favorite metallic paint for an airbrush, it's good to know that Tamiya's metallics aren't that bad after all.

Itty bitty tanks

I recently picked up a copy of Memoir '44. It's a simple skirmish game with fun little miniatures. While the game components are pretty nice, I decided to paint a few replacements from GHQ.

Here's a shot of the Churchill Mk VII:

Finishing these little guys is a snap. Although there are numerous steps, they're quite easy and lend themselves well to painting models en masse:

Prime with a grey automotive spray.

For the base color, airbrush a 3:1 mix of Tamiya XF-62 Olive Drab and XF-59 Desert Yellow.

Highlight by airbrushing Tamiya XF-4 Yellow Green.

Seal with a gloss lacquer.

Spot wash with a 1:1 mix of black and burnt umber enamels.

Lightly drybrush with artists oils. I chose a light khaki color.

Using artists oils, blend black and grey on the muzzles.

Seal again with a gloss lacquer and then flat lacquer.

I also painted the tracks grey and picked out the details using the spot wash. Even though it's hard to see, I wouldn't choose those colors again. Next time, I think I'll substitute a dark brown for the grey and follow-up with a drybrush of orange-brown to imitate rust.

At a scale of 1/285, the tanks are tiny (about 15 mm in length). I suppose you could paint additional details, but it would be a struggle.

A minor quibble of GHQ models is mold seams. On the Churchill, you can see the seams on the turrets and somewhat on the sides just above the wheels. Unfortunately, it's impossible to remove this casting defect without destroying the terrific details. I've observed this to some extent on nearly every GHQ model I've purchased. Honestly, at such a small scale, I don't know how GHQ could minimize it further - just a fact of life I suppose. Once the models are painted, you look past it anyway and forget the seems are even there.

Back to painting

After a long hiatus, I decided to pick up the brush and try my hand at painting once again. Here are a few pictures. Maybe it's not my best work, but I'm happy with the results considering the rusty skills.

The first miniature is a Blood Angels space marine from Games Workshop. To accelerate the process, I base coated the model by airbrushing Tamiya gloss red over white primer. I don't know how much good that did since it still took me a full day to finish the rest of the mini!


Unfortunately, I coated him with a sealer from DecoArt called Triple Thick Gloss Glaze. I thought this might be a fast way to apply a bullet-proof protective coat on a gaming miniature. Although it did the trick, the heavy sealer obscured all the details. Oh well, live and learn.

The marine fired up my inspiration so I decided to paint another model. This time I chose a simple sturm zombie from the game Incursion and primed with a grey automotive spray. I limited my palette to muted colors and tried to focus my efforts on applying a lot of contrast. Here's a shot the paint palette.


Considering the troubles I had encountered with the marine, I fell back to my 'tried and true' approach for sealing: airbrushed coats of Model Master gloss and flat lacquer. Much better!


I have a couple zombies on hand and will probably tackle more of the undead in the future.