Handles for Painting Miniatures

I've been painting minis for years and, throughout that time, I've always used winebottle corks for handles. They're essentially free (if you enjoy wine) and are a reasonable size to hold your model. But there are a few shortcomings related to their size and shape. They're rather small in diameter which can lead to some fatigue if painting for awhile. Also, you need to saw off one end to assure the model/handle can stand on its own. Even with this easy modification, it's still easy to topple. 

I do think these are minor quibbles and I clearly haven't given it much thought after all this time. That is, until I finally tried something new.

A size 20 cork with 1/4 inch balsa wood strip. 

The old way (which is still fine, especially for small parts).

I've started using a large size 20 cork stopper with a 1/4 inch strip of balsa wood attached to the top. I can easily attach/remove a pinned model, place a model to the side without fear of falling, and my hand no longer aches after a long painting session. 

Another trick is to place a small piece of paper beneath an unpainted model before attaching to the balsa strip. Now I have a handy way to hold a model for spray priming. The paper keeps both my hand and the cork handle clean. Once the model is dry (easily standing on its own), I can just remove it, discard the paper, and re-attach the model. 

Moisture Vaporators

I don't often take pictures during each step of a project, but I thought it might be fun to try it this time. Who knows, I may paint some more moisture vaporators in the future and can look back at this for reference.

1. Prime white.
2. Airbrush a dark grey into the recesses.
3. Airbrush base coat of white, letting grey remain in recesses as a shadow.
4. Using a torn sponge (from discarded packign material), blot scracthes onto model using dark red-brown paint.
5. Apply weathering with a small brush. This includes chips of the same dark red-brown paint used previously, followed by spot washes of sepia ink, and finally black-lining around crevices with a dark grey enamel wash. Paint radar/antenna with silver paints.
6. Attach models to a base (already primed in black) and apply base material.
7. Paint a thin coat of a sand color to base material. Follow by re-applying a second thin coat.

Star Wars Legion B-1 Battledroids

Here's a batch of B-1 Battledroids I painted for Star Wars Legion. I followed Sorastro’s video where he almost exclusively used GW's contrast paints. This was my first time using the paint and it wasn't as easy to use as I imagined.

Here’s what I learned:

• Don’t treat GW’s contrast paints like GW’s shades.
• Unlike shades, contrast paints dry reasonably fast.
• Unlike shades, contrast paints transition to a glossy, sticky phase before they fully cure with a flat finish. If you touch the paint when it’s sticky, it will lift the paint and the spot will appear as nothing more than lightly tinted primer.
• If excess contrast paint is not removed, the final color can be much darker than you intended.

My technique was to first load my brush with water, wipe away the excess on a paper towel, then dip the brush into the paint and coat the model. I then quickly proceeded to wash out brush, load with contrast medium and wipe away the excess on a paper towel, and finally mop-up contrast paint from flat areas and high points on the model.

GW's contrast paints seem like an easy-to-use product for models that appear weathered. I'm not so sure about clean models, though. I have a box of Clone Troopers. Perhaps they'll be good candidates to explore that technique.